A rice field in Magome. Photo by Shigeki Kajita / The North American Post.
We met for breakfast at our minshuku in Magome, then split into two groups. Our group set off to hike over the pass to the town of Tsumago while the others came later by taxi. We climbed from our doorstep up the smooth paving stones of the main street with a stream running alongside and a cistern at the top. The minshuku owner, Mr. Hara had told us that Magome had been destroyed by a fire, so when it was rebuilt the stream was relocated to town to put out future fires. All the buildings here are wood, so fire has always been a big danger.
So much water we heard and saw that day! It was perfect hiking weather, sunny with a slight chill. We crossed the road above town and got on a trail of rough cut stones where you had to be careful you did not turn an ankle. The crickets were so musical. I thought there were birds chirping in the foliage at my feet. There were some cultivated fields and persimmon trees growing wild.
We passed a small restaurant owned by the postman we had photographed the day before making his rounds through Magome.
We passed a waterwheel filled from a small wooden aqueduct.
We passed a little woman in waraboshi (straw hat) and faded monpe (work pants) by her house washing a pail of satsumaimo potatoes. She gave us permission to take her photo. She gave us samples of satsumaimo and azuki beans drying over an open air fireplace. They were delicious! We bought two bags as trail snacks.
We passed jizou in their red bibs, the stone statues that protect children.
We passed the entrance to a tiny graveyard and climbed the stairs to the modest but well tended temple. It was a pleasant hike up and over the pass, with not much other foot traffic. We headed down the other side through mossy woods. The leaves were still green, with a hint of fall color around their edges.
We were passing a simple brown hut when a man in a waraboshi came out and shooed us in courteously. It was a teahouse! We sat around a low rustic table talking to some Japanese hikers, and passed around a cup of sweet plum wine. The man in the waraboshi served us persimmon slices, tsukemono, umeboshi, tea and hard candies. He told us that several people took turns hiking up to the teahouse from Tsumago to serve the hikers.
When it was time to go, we asked him how much. He said, whatever is in your heart, so we put our change in a slotted wooden box and said goodbye. One of our party, who had never been on a hike in her life, was quite captivated. We explained to her that on a normal hike you would not have people alongside the trail offering you wine and snacks.